The House of Anita Dongre is an illustrious empire of fashion for good. But it all started with a zen-like focus on building this empire somewhere back in 1998 when Anita Dongre dreamt big with two sewing machines and herculean resolve. Fast-forward now, the 59-year-old fashion mogul looked resplendent and vivacious as she reached the inaugural Sharrp Summit, held at Taj Lands end, Mumbai on 12th April. She was about to narrate a success story that hinges on ‘green’ fashion. 

Foreseeing the need for sustainable fashion

When asked about sustainability being her forte ever since, she highlighted how this new ‘buzz word’ has compelled any and every fashion brand to think hard on angles she did 25 years before. Even better, she introduced to a friend on the spot, who had accompanied her to the event and was wearing a kurta bought from the House of Anita Dongre a decade before. “Does it look like it’s that old? It doesn’t as I’ve always believed in creating timeless, classic clothes,” Dongre exclaimed.

Design aesthetics of elegance and simplicity have played crucial roles in creating the unifying language of any HoAD patron today. Foreseeing trends that were once deemed impossible by the industry, Dongre has always balanced fashion with resources that doesn’t stifle the environment. In March, the latest range of vegan bags was launched, a project that Dongre had been planning forever for.  The vegan leather bags are made from a biodegradable material manufactured in and sourced from the United States. It looks and feel like leather, but is completely plant-based. Another line of bags is on the cards, to be made from hand-painted ‘picchwai’ form.

“As a company, we have never used leather in these 25 years. We are waiting for the right kind of material before we introduce our line of accessories. In the clothes, we always strive to develop materials which are not just organic but are manufactured using lesser resources and raw material which are also renewable,” Dongre maintained. 

This brings her to talk about the significant collaboration her brand did with Lenzing back in 2019 for Lakme Fashion Week. With eco-viscose fibres sourced from forestry plantations, this Austrian brand ventured into the Indian fashion scene on a strong ground of ethical consumerism. 

Commitment to ethical processes matter

These are one of many factors that matter to Dongre when she seeks a like-minded collaborator for her plethora of ranges across verticals in clothing, jewelry, accessories, and gifts. “I visited Lenzing’s factory in Austria to see exactly how they produce their fibre. To my surprise, I saw that the water for fibre production released back into the same water body it was sourced from, was clearer than the original water. Such dedication to environment matters a lot,” she stated.

Hemp is another eco-friendly fibre that her brand, Grassroot, has used extensively in a new everyday clothing line. The breathable fabric is timed impeccably, considering the current summer season. According to Dongre, it’s no rocket science to imbibe sustainability. Mindful living sits at the core of Indian culture and a childhood gifted with conscious lifestyle had moulded Dongre to stay put with her rewarding belief system which now empowers generations of fashionistas, beyond fashion. 

On the flip side of timeless fashion are some challenges akin to those of her labour of love, Grassroot. The challenge is unlike her other brands, which is why retail expansion of Grassroot is tougher. “There are no deadlines for Grassroot. We work on a design whenever a great idea strikes,” she explains.

Saying no to ‘reckless’ growth

As start-up founders and entrepreneurs listened to her with undivided attention, Dongre shared an unusual take on the rat race for growth. “Please don’t invest yourself completely into growth and keep thinking about it. It pays to pause for a while and enjoy the work that you have done,” she said, explaining how American growth equity fund General Atlantic (GA) was looking to invest in an Indian fashion house. They found merit in the transparent practices of the House of Anita Dongre and proceeded with the funding. 

It’s still a long way to go for Dongre, who juggles multiple roles besides being the creative head of her expanding brand. “We’ve opened stores in Europe and recently in Dubai. I still have a lot to do before I really become a global brand, foraying into US and UAE, which are the biggest global markets,” the passionate designer signed off.